Saturday, January 20, 2024

BEAUTY: Clothing--Yohji Yamamoto

I always love seeing a Yohji Yamamoto collection...the highly regarded and highly decorated designer is one of those elevated, iconic artists who are singular. While I love when a designer takes inspiration, or inspirationS from some wild, fascinating, interesting source, Yamamoto exists in a realm of his own mythology, much like Rick Owens. Yamamoto has his own sartorial vernacular and his own internal logic. His creations--Asian and Western elements combined into a future/retro (sometimes ecclesiastical) sensibility, layered and slouchy Bohemian-chic garments, flowing asymmetrical cuts, all awash with an insouciant, rippling sense of Romanticism worthy of any French Symbolist poet--are timeless, since they are not necessarily tethered to anything outside of their orbit.

So for this F-W '24-'25 collection at Paris Fashion Week, Yamamoto showed his usual oeuvre with some variations on a theme. I get a pared-down feeling from the overall presentation, not as much flourish...perhaps the zeitgeist is a little harder these days. Despite this, the Yamamoto sensibility I described above remains. But the really fun part was the celebrities walking for him: the iconic German filmmaker Wim Wenders (looks 9 and 18), actor Norman Reedus (looks 10 and 17), the dancer Brandon Miel Masele (look 7), and musician and member of Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds Warren Ellis (look 13).

Of interest: several journalists who attended the live show remarked about the languid pace and odd, hushed soundtrack. Watch the video below and see what you think.



https://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/en/

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