Monday, June 17, 2013

BEAUTY: Clothing--Alexander McQueen

The second day of London Collections: Men was very engaging. And my beloved Alexander McQueen/Sarah Burton showed a Spring-Summer '14 men's collection that was historical (as usual) and romantic. Silk, satin and brocade pieces in neutrals of white, soft butter, grey, and black were embellished with details of lace and florals as well as the classic McQueen skull motif. I really like the over-vest of delicate lace. Three-quarter length jackets and coats conjure Victorian, Edwardian images. And a version of a strapped Mary Jane shoe for men speaks to Dandies. Some details escape the wide lens of the camera: Tim Blanks at reports that "Fabrics were bleached, faded as though they'd been left in the sun. Frayed jacquards, worn brocades, and tarnished buttons also suggested some environmental distress." There is a fascinating tight, tailored sense yet at the same time, the collection feels loose and flowing due in large part to the generously cut shin-length shorts. This tension gives the collection a wonderful edge.

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